Do this first
Find the entry valve
If water ever escapes from a pipe, close the valve where water enters the house first and then call.

Repiping service
Someone spotted gray plastic pipe in your garage, or an inspector wrote down three letters. Call to learn what PB pipe is and what polybutylene pipe replacement involves for a Woodstock home.
Polybutylene is a plastic supply pipe found in many American houses built from roughly the late 1970s into the mid-1990s. People tend to find out by accident: a home inspector writes it up, a buyer asks a question, or a run of flexible gray pipe shows up near the water heater.
The pipe is flexible and gray, though blue and black versions exist, and it is stamped PB in many cases along its length. Not every gray pipe is polybutylene, and a house that once had it may have had parts replaced, so what you see in the garage may not match what is inside the bathroom walls. Take close photos of any lettering on pipe that is already in view, and a wider shot of where it goes. Do not cut into walls or crawl into tight spaces to check; a clear photo and a good description are enough to start the conversation.
Many owners choose to replace it, and the reasons are personal and practical. Some prefer to know the whole system is one modern material. Others are already planning a remodel or have had a leak elsewhere, and walls that are already open make it a natural time to move pipe.
Whatever the reason, the first step is the same: find out what is actually in the house. The technician dispatched to your home can explain what you have and what replacement involves, and you can take it from there.
Start with the connections at the water heater, wherever it lives; a garage or utility closet is a natural place to look. Under the kitchen sink and behind the washing machine, short visible stubs can give a clue about the material of the longer runs inside the wall.
In Towne Lake, basements are common, so lines along floor joists may be visible from the stairs without tools. In other parts of Woodstock the layout varies from one house to the next, so look only at what you can see from the floor. Photograph it and leave the attic and crawlspace alone; the technician can plan how to reach those areas.

Replacing everything in one project means a single material, one set of connections and walls opened one time. The overview on whole-house repiping describes how that kind of job is run and what the household goes through.
Staging spreads the work over more visits. A technician might do the attic runs first, then one bathroom at a time. The trade-off is old pipe left in service for a while, transition fittings between old and new, and walls opened more than once. Some owners ask about swapping only the fittings; the technician can explain what that would and would not address. Request each option laid out with its scope, number of wall openings and what remains of the old system. For smaller scopes, read about partial repiping and reroutes.
Photos of any lettering, the pipe path and the water heater connections.
Age, layout, attic and basement access, and any past repairs or leaks.
Whole house, staged or partial, each with its openings explained.
Flexible plastic or copper, chosen for the layout.
New lines are pressure tested, then access openings are closed.
Insurers may ask about pipe type. If a questionnaire is in front of you, answer it truthfully, and ask your insurer or agent what they would want to see if the pipe were replaced. Photos taken before and after the work are a simple thing to have on hand for that conversation.
When a sale is on the horizon, whether to replace the pipe before listing or to discuss it with a buyer is a question for you and your real estate agent. The technician can describe what is in the house and what the options involve, and your agent can advise on how that fits your timeline.
Towne Lake, in ZIP 30189, is a master-planned area of roughly 5,700 homes built from the late 1980s into the 1990s, which sits inside the window when polybutylene appears in many homes. Towne Lake Hills, a golf community within Towne Lake, is one example of that era. Wyngate, with homes built roughly from 1988 to 2001, is another. Even neighbors can differ, with some houses piped in copper and others in plastic, so checking your own house matters more than assuming.
In ZIP 30188, a large amenity community such as Deer Run can hold a mix of materials, and one home may combine polybutylene with copper, CPVC or PEX after earlier repairs. Older houses near the historic downtown and the 1879 depot area may have been remodeled during the years polybutylene was in use, which can leave gray pipe in an older house.
Do this first
If water ever escapes from a pipe, close the valve where water enters the house first and then call.
Close shots of any PB printing and wide shots of where visible pipe travels.
Leave pinholes behind finished walls to the technician.
Where the pipe was found, its color and which rooms it seems to feed.
Replacements generally use flexible PEX or rigid copper, chosen for your layout. Expect to hear about the water heater connection, the main valve and new stop valves at each fixture. If your home also carries older steel, galvanized pipe replacement is a useful companion read, and if you have had leaks, pinhole leak repair helps you decide between repair and replacement. The technician gives you the schedule for your house once the plan is set.
Look at exposed supply lines in the garage, basement, utility closet and near the water heater, only where you can see them from the floor. Polybutylene is flexible plastic, gray and sometimes blue or black, and often printed with the letters PB. Take clear photos of any printing and of where the pipe goes. Houses built from roughly the late 1970s to the mid-1990s are the years to think about, though renovations can change what is behind the walls.
It can be, particularly in houses from the late 1980s and 1990s, as in parts of Towne Lake. Some homes have had portions replaced over the years, so what a house has today can be a mix. The only way to know is to look at your own pipes. Age is a place to begin, but it never settles the question for a specific home, so photos and a conversation with the technician come first.
Some owners do, though the timing is up to you. A remodel already on the calendar is one trigger, and others simply gather information first. A technician can explain what you have, what the options are and what each would involve, so you can decide with the full picture. Photos of the pipe and the age of the house make that first conversation more useful.
Some owners ask this. A technician can look at your system and explain what swapping fittings would and would not accomplish, and whether it addresses the reason you called. Describe what prompted the question, whether that is a leak, a remodel or a remark from an inspector, so the options discussed fit what you actually need and are laid out side by side.
Insurers may ask about pipe type, and a buyer or inspector may raise it during a sale. Ask your insurer whether it matters for your policy, answer any questionnaire truthfully, and let your real estate agent advise on a sale. Clear photos and a description of what is in the house make those conversations smoother, and the technician can help you describe what is there.
Close the shut-off valve where water enters the house if water is escaping, then call. Move belongings clear, set a towel or bucket under any drip and photograph what is already visible without crawling into tight spaces. Do not wrap tape or a clamp around a leak behind a finished wall. Note when you first saw the moisture and which rooms are nearby, since that helps the technician narrow down where to start looking.
House size, the number of bathrooms, the route through the attic or basement and the number of wall openings all change the schedule, so the answer comes once the technician has walked your home. Staged or partial jobs break the work into shorter visits. Request the day-by-day plan, including when water will be off, so you can plan meals, showers and any work calls around it.
PEX or copper, chosen for your layout, access and preferences. PEX is flexible and can need fewer wall openings, while copper is rigid and familiar but takes more work at each turn. The technician explains both, including the connection to your water heater and the new shut-off valves. Ask which one is recommended for your house and what the other would change in routing and wall openings.
Send photos if you can and describe where the pipe runs. The technician we dispatch explains what you have and what replacing it would involve, with the options laid out before any work begins.
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